redline
08-01-2006, 07:31 PM
This tutorial is a way of blending multiple photographs into a single composition to create a high dynamic range image (HDR image). Essentially what you are going to be doing is creating two images, one exposed for the highlights, and one for the shadows. Then we'll blend them together using whats called a layer mask. The reason for doing this is that cameras can only capture about 3-4 stops of dynamic range (tonal range from highlights to shadows), while our human eyes capture about 10-stops of dynamic range. So what we'll be doing is trying to increase the dynamic range, resembling the scene we saw in real life.
First off, there are two ways you can go about doing this:
a.) You can shoot in RAW format, an uncompressed file format that allows you to change white balance, exposure compensation, etc in the computer with little file corruption and then process 1 image twice.
b.) You can shoot two images at different exposures on a tripod.
In this tutorial I'm going to use method a, but its the same proceedure for method b as well.
First off, you'll want to open your image in Photoshop. Now if you are working in RAW, you will see the ACR (adobe camera raw) screen. Before you start tweeking your image, remember: Anything you cange will have to be changed twice, once for the image you are editing, and once for its duplicate. For example: If you change the white balance to "auto", from "as shot" you will have to do the same for both images.
http://www.markdelbrueck.com/blending/raw.jpg
Look at the two things I circled in blue. The first is the exposure. You will want to uncheck the "auto" button, and adjust the image for the highlights. Typicallly this means that you are adjusting the image to show a greater tonal range in the foreground. Doing this will ruin your beautiful sky, but not to worry, we'll bring it back later on. Normally, I adjust the exposure value (ev) to +1.0 for the highlight image.
One more thing to notice: Do you want to work in 8-bit color or 16-bit color? If you plan on going on and doing tone mapping and or printing, then 16-bit is your key. If not, I just normally work in 8-bit because its faster.
http://www.markdelbrueck.com/blending/light.jpg
(exposed for the shadows/dark areas. Note: the sky and highlights are blown out)
Click Open. Next you'll want to go back to your folder where the image first off came from, and re-open it in photoshop. The only thing you'll need to change the second time around is the exposure value (ev). This time we'll be exposing for the shadows (background, sky, etc). So move the slider to -1.0 and click open.
http://www.markdelbrueck.com/blending/dark.jpg
(exposed for the highlights/light areas. Note: the dark areas are realllyyy dark)
You should be left with two images open now.
First off, there are two ways you can go about doing this:
a.) You can shoot in RAW format, an uncompressed file format that allows you to change white balance, exposure compensation, etc in the computer with little file corruption and then process 1 image twice.
b.) You can shoot two images at different exposures on a tripod.
In this tutorial I'm going to use method a, but its the same proceedure for method b as well.
First off, you'll want to open your image in Photoshop. Now if you are working in RAW, you will see the ACR (adobe camera raw) screen. Before you start tweeking your image, remember: Anything you cange will have to be changed twice, once for the image you are editing, and once for its duplicate. For example: If you change the white balance to "auto", from "as shot" you will have to do the same for both images.
http://www.markdelbrueck.com/blending/raw.jpg
Look at the two things I circled in blue. The first is the exposure. You will want to uncheck the "auto" button, and adjust the image for the highlights. Typicallly this means that you are adjusting the image to show a greater tonal range in the foreground. Doing this will ruin your beautiful sky, but not to worry, we'll bring it back later on. Normally, I adjust the exposure value (ev) to +1.0 for the highlight image.
One more thing to notice: Do you want to work in 8-bit color or 16-bit color? If you plan on going on and doing tone mapping and or printing, then 16-bit is your key. If not, I just normally work in 8-bit because its faster.
http://www.markdelbrueck.com/blending/light.jpg
(exposed for the shadows/dark areas. Note: the sky and highlights are blown out)
Click Open. Next you'll want to go back to your folder where the image first off came from, and re-open it in photoshop. The only thing you'll need to change the second time around is the exposure value (ev). This time we'll be exposing for the shadows (background, sky, etc). So move the slider to -1.0 and click open.
http://www.markdelbrueck.com/blending/dark.jpg
(exposed for the highlights/light areas. Note: the dark areas are realllyyy dark)
You should be left with two images open now.