Smoked Tails AKA: where the hell did Ozzie Bobs thread go?

[Kühl Carbon]

:)

I have gotten more than a few requests to do a tech article on my smoked lamps ... mostly the tails. It really is quite simple. I will put as much detail as I can into this post but please ask questions if I make something unclear.

First, the materials. Quite cheap really. Of course, you need some tint spray. I used a window tint spray for R/C cars. It is specially formulated for use on polycarbonate, which is the type of plastic most modern day lamp lenses are made out of. I used Pactra brand. It is part # PACRC294. This particular brand has a reddish tint to it actually. There are other brands to be sure. This is just what my local hobby shop carried. It comes in 3.0 oz spray cans:

http://www.hobbiesr.com/images/pac.jpg/pac-106.jpg/pacrc252.jpg

2 cans did 2 tails, 2 front bumper lenses, and 1 CHMSL lens along with a few test pieces. It went quite a ways.

Next, you will need some masking tape. It is really quite critical that you use the right kind. Polycarbonate spray paint is just a little thicker than water ... it is very runny. I recommend Tamiya model masking tape. It is non-absorbent ... almost like a plastic as opposed to a paper and very smooth. It is not grainy or "wrinkly" like a normal masking tape and doesn't allow any "bleed under" It makes a nice crisp line every time:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/gr/tam/tam87032.jpg

It comes in 6mm, 10 mm, and 18mm. Obviously, since this is not a model, bigger is better and the 18 will do just fine:

http://us.st2.yimg.com/store6.yimg.com/I/matrixcollectibles_1745_160413284

Last you will need some clear coat. A nice urethane. You are not going to believe this, but I used Minwax, Helmsman Spar Urethane I found at Home Depot. I used it because I was looking for special properties. Most clear urethanes will protect from sunlight, moisture, and be stable in temperature changes, but it is very important to find something that will not react with the basecoat when applied. I found this stuff while making emblems with some delicate decals. It was the only thing that wouldn't react, and damage them so I was pretty sure it wouldn't react with the polycarb paint either. The pic is of a can, but I obviously used a spray. It has a black plastic cap and the label looks exactly the same:

http://www.minwax.com/images/products/helmsman.jpg

It comes in different “sheens”. Be sure to get “Clear Gloss” and not satin or semi-gloss.

Ok, we got 2 cans of polycarbonate paint at $4.30 per. I roll of 18mm Tamiya masking tape at $6.50, and I can of Minwax spray urethane at $5.00 for a grand total of 20 bucks wrapped up in our project. Let's get started.

[Kühl Carbon]

I need to take a moment, post some b4 pics, and give some cautionary advice. I used updated tails for this project. If you don't have a vehicle that came with the latest MB style tail lamps with the almost clear backup and blinker area, your results may not net you the same "look" as mine. If you look at my before pics and imagine doing this to the older style tails, I think you can see the results probably would've been different. Not bad necessarily mind you, just different. This technique can be used on any plastic lens, no matter the color. Here are the old tails:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0UwAXA2YYvv!FHPsV252Yo4nzgPO452nhlWjbXb!vAZL8SYMc4 alj9yszQwEqgAIcyWxkuXgnd1NCgEnClO!xJqHWdOQ7LVyWA2a VyAEHOvMLEtKKnsthaLdSX0e8eS7W/b4lamps1.JPG?dc=4675425908834435491

here, note the redness of the CHMSL as well:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0VABCIZcYYBGFHPsV252Yo4xCs!ob8bJU7RELxDdoENPd23EkA 3VxnIajK72Ia4vNUSzDi*eOdt!PvR6G8fblsVpyXq2*EVqVmj8 cOiZXUsbjd!InHFltYorLK68FJBQI/b4lamps20.JPG?dc=4675425919915334992

One overall. Try to imagine what it had looked like had I just smoked these:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0VADLGpgYqxGFHPsV252Yo2EFMXyb16RxcvSL*zSo5JoGP1dQr VCBc2d5o6AsutRn9bdUKR*Bm3XgMamiiB0*Dr0ra0MG6V4mYIF vYf8Jrmf7xGDab9mWKBXo9H0Qxrm0/b4lamps30.JPG?dc=4675425920000316487

... and here is the front bumper indicator, the long hated enemy of the domestic SLK owner:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0UwAFA2kYqwCFHPsV252Yo9*yGGUyh!*J7rSps6Y*swdtGnnBC 5MqQTgTEI07qBt87U3n!tzgQEm!Wqfxm!TMLPhvdNr*cOUQHfz Pz*McVlqTzv2aVIv40iSKZDZ8aBbr/b4lamps4.JPG?dc=4675425909091756527

The polycarbonate spray dries in 20 minutes per coat (really more like 5 ... it's really fast) but the urethane will take a good 24 hours to cure. I really mean it. Something about the two chemicals in combo really took a long time to "untack" as I like to say. More on a little insurance policy later.

[Kühl Carbon]

You really need to remove any lamp to be worked on from your vehicle first.

You then want to mask off the areas you don't want smoked on the OUTSIDE of the lamp. I have seen comments and guesses on other boards, and ppl seem to think I got the gloss level by painting the inside of my lenses ... not true. Use the Tamiya masking tape along it's natural edge if possible. It just avoids cutting and potentially damaging your lamps if you slip. You’ll notice the SLK lamps simply have two "stripes" across them, so I really only had to trim the very ends (the rounded part) with my exacto knife.

Molded tail lamps always have too be molded in stages or steps. One step for each color if you will. This process always leaves a ridge between the colors. You can't really see it as the plastic is all translucent, but it's there. You WILL see it when you lay tape over it. Use this as a guide to do your trickier tape trimming. Let the knife blade just ride along the "ridge". It really makes it easy to do a professional job.

Next, use a single width of tape along the entire outside edge of the housing. I used some newsprint to form a "bag" and carefully taped it to that strip, leaving only the lens exposed. You are ready to paint. It doesn't smell like roses so go out in the garage or something so your wife, kids, and dog don't die. It is not a typical paint smell.

Let me say temperature is very important every step of the way. Find an area at least 75F .

Shake the can of paint. Give it a good shake cause it will sit for a while in the next step.

Get a bowl ... not one of your wifes good ones, but a bit deep. Fill it with the hottest water that will come out of your tap. Peel the label off of the can. Don’t submerge the cap and all, just make sure the water comes up to about the rim. Set the can in the bowl of water for about 5 minutes. When you remove the can, shake for about 30 seconds. As you do, feel and make sure the paint is nice and warm inside. This is an old modelers trick and gives the paint a lot of extra "bite" when sprayed. Your lenses are very smooth and the paint is very thin. This is a nice trick for a little extra insurance.

Mist the paint on in layers. VERY THIN LAYERS. The paint will run like crazy if you don't. It will look splotchy when first applied. Don't spray on more to try to even it, you WILL mess it up. It is supposed to work like this. It will naturally even as it dries. Let the first coat dry. It will dry to a semi-dull finish quite quickly. Build up as many layers as you like keeping in mind it is a LOT darker than you think. I only put 2 coats on my tails ... one would've had a dramatic effect and maybe even been alright.

If you screw up, make sure you have some mineral spirits around. As long as the paint isn’t “set” you can remove the tint and start over …. Neat eh?

[Kühl Carbon]

Next you will want to apply the clear coat. This stuff really goes on quite easily and it makes it simple to get a nice smooth finish. You only really want to apply one coat, so make sure you are in a well lit area. You want a full coat of coverage, but not so much that it runs. It will not break down the polycarbonate layers underneath which is good, but it does take an ungodly amount of time to dry.

An old trick I used to use when making my carbon fiber emblems is this... It simulates a "bake" as a professional body shop would do. It works better with something flat like an emblem, but helped cure some of my smaller lamps as well.

I start a load of rags in the washer after applying the clear. After and hour or two, I test the paint and see if it has tacked. I throw the rags in the dryer on high, put a sheet of plastic wrap or old garbage bag on the dryer, and put the parts on top to "bake". Don't use paper ... it is a great insulator and you will "half" the heat. I start another load of wash an go until all the clothes are clean. My parts are baked and the wife thinks I am a great husband. I just don't tell her I used her 500 dollar blouse to bake some parts for my car :P .

Pull off the masking and remount the parts. The non-absorbent tape makes this easy. I really wouldn't even try this until at least 24 hours has past. This should be close to the result:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0VQAFA68ZyGg1!P7Nuiz3L94h3aJbdqJN!mHg!b4X!OHs8hzC4 ufJau6DLMCwCrukSLIGQ1UN3DMOm1*a95pZLTIiVRnNGa5zu!J iNEECwySdScy9O62tL7ncxlYBd9XC/newtailfar.JPG?dc=4675425909434315164

I was shooting for a "black cherry" effect when I did this. The redness of the specific brand of tint helped achieve this. It caused other problems later...

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0VwAAAIwajrI1!P7Nuiz3L!ILN1JDQpnVI6eizpDXqHtrXNudF *C1DSXdz5IXmrk!NU7INWwNpPa1Sh3GQUUcqG9lpLQG5n03yFZ 8KCGkwTW6DOJn7eYtCKEUeL6H302o/newtailclose.JPG?dc=4675425909359725899

... note the shine I got on the CHMSL. Damn MB had to go put the "bellybutton" right in the middle of the lens. Look how the glossiness pops with the blue paint:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0VAAaA3MYOAeJSVocClxeqgwURhHdCA7RICmHLb7cCPsYSEdQ3 xWFWbd2Picnt8JNPt9WyBE5WjsOMtkG7*S9!F*005occg8aPML QNzzG4xQ3HvJGN!AvWc!ssPLHxSSZ/newCHMSL0.JPG?dc=4675425920058998467

... and lastly, the side indicator almost goes away:

http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0VgAAACUaoI8a9GIHeL915e3OG72em6F6DtEk1y6zvE7DnVlCN eMwnW8xnCrBVuG83dOU9*ym4qD1DLaAXmTSpIP7KXyJLVaBkHC *UVuvyk5rCb6xDKTFNpj5onsuf03L/newsidebump.JPG?dc=4675425909255528402

[Kühl Carbon]

I want to go into a little more detail about the bumper indicator. It had a lot of that "lettering" you will sometimes find on lenses on it. I noticed in Ozzie Bobs pics, the tint really highlighted it. It has to do with the thinness of the paint. Some commented on how it looked, but I thought it had a lot to do with the lighting in Bobs pics.

Anyway, I wanted to try to avoid that so I sanded .... yes sanded all the lettering off with 220 grit sandpaper and finished with 400. The results were ... strange. First, the paint really bit. It did not naturally even as it did on the slick surface of the untouched lens. This caused me to apply one thick initial coat almost turning the lens black. I misted on a second coat to even it up and get all the edges. I knew I should've gone with thinner coats. Since the lamp is not really needed or used, I just cleared and mounted it. At night, It really had a reddish glow. Like I said the tint is reddish, but it even showed slightly red with the amber lens.

I went to the dealer and got another set. I used the same sanding process but this time I polished it with a buffing wheel prior to paint. This can be done by hand with some plastic polish, but if you have done a big area, you will wear out your arm. I cleaned it up with some mineral spirits and misted on some tint. It worked fine and evened out like the smooth lenses.

It is indeed possible to get rid of lettering, chips and slight imperfections with this method for a really smooth finished look.

From a durability standpoint, the polycarb paint is really tough. I have been through the automatic car wash and down all kinds of roads and everything has held up fine. There are a couple little rock chips in the bumper indicator, but that, at least, is to be expected. No scrathes or yellowing ... nothing. It has weathered well.


Ozzie, it would be nice if you could post up your pics again.

Somebody posted pics of a Sprewell car that had a similar treatment. If you are reading this, can you repost the pic in this thread???

Oggle, thanx again ... happy now???

[Ashman]

Kuhl,

great article on how to do it right...

Every time I tried it, I got impatient and ended up spraying it on too thick so it ended up needing to be redone....

Wish I had your article before, but I got new tails anyway that look amazing...

Maybe I will do another kinda mod to something else with this method and materials!!!.

Alon

[CKlasse]

Kuhl,

Thanks for the great DIY. I am looking forward to do this one..:)

[Ozzie Bob]

My post wasn't quite as detailed as this one! :o
Here are the pics I posted. It looks like the paint has 'bubbled' but it is smooth as. Looks like it's OEM :)

http://members.optusnet.com.au/bertkumar/rep1.jpg

And this is what I used to tint them ;)

http://members.optusnet.com.au/bertkumar/rep2.jpg

[oggle]

w00t w00t! You are my hero Kühl Carbon!! :zucchini:

Gonna have to spend some time to digest all that before trying it out. :)

[C280 JR]

kuhl, that looks awsome, but i cannot find the paint anywhere...i looked in every store there is to look at

Elvir

[Kühl Carbon]

Originally posted by C280 JR
kuhl, that looks awsome, but i cannot find the paint anywhere...i looked in every store there is to look at

Elvir

Elvir ... you know how to use the internet, doncha :P ???

Order direct from the manufacturer here:

Testors Corp. (http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1243)

I am sure there are online hobby shops that carry it as well. For the whole $4.29 it's gonna cost you, it's probably not worth it to go find yourself a better deal :D ;) .


Thanx tons Ozzie Bob. I thought I remembered your tint being "blacker" than mine. It certainly looks like it is. This is an alternative if the "red tinge" of the Pactra bothers you.

... still lookin for that darn Sprewell pic ....

[Brabus]

Awesome Article... I think I'm gonna have to copy this one!

[C280 JR]

thanks Kuhl,

Im gonna order it from the internet...once again you helped me!:D

But i have one question...is that one spray gonna be enough for a C class rear lights?

Elvir

[Kenzbenz]

i used a 7oz can and i still have a little left over. Those testors are 3oz u might wanna get 2 just to be surre.