MB300E87
10-19-2004, 08:28 PM
BNZSport.com Guest Writer Contest Winner
I wanted a Mercedes, I wanted a W202, and I wanted a warranty. So I got a 2000 C230 kompressor last spring. The C43 was appealing, but since I was only 23 years old and my budget was limited, I could not afford the insurance or price of the AMG.
I have been on BNZsport and Club202 a while looking at the mods available on the car. It seemed there weren?t many options available for the 230k, but since its a kompressor, the simplest replacement for displacement is boost.
Not a lot of options there either. Dynospot racing, Kleemann or ASP. Dynospot had a 30whp gain but removed the magnetic supercharger clutch and this wasn?t an option since my car is under warranty; the price was around $1200 for pulley and a GIAC chip. Kleemann stopped producing the kit so finding one was almost impossible; that kit was $1800. I checked on what Linh (can be found on Club202) had to offer. His kit includes a smaller pulley than Kleemann giving a little less boost, thus less stress on the engine. No need for a chip since the fuel pressure regulator did the job and there was also MAS relocation. I didn?t get the cool Kleemann badges, but I didn?t want them anyway.
Nobody had an ASP pullied W202, which scared me a little. After reading a lot on the R170 forums (using the same engine), I got more and more confident on the ASP since many users were happy with the product. As an added incentive, when you send your old pulley back to ASP, they credit you for the core exchange. This makes the kit at something like $450 total which I considered a steal.
I wanted to have a base dyno and see the gains from the pulley. I went to L-Sport in Montreal that has the latest technology in dynos; a dynapack. The dynapack is placed directly on your hubs and you can even dyno 4WD cars.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TABxA4gWOk1Blpvg9vly!gYvW5EYXam9K!6kQcLzAYvWZIlX0 tf7uxmxVw*R1cj!6zmpnZh!ihFUQwsut3KFCY3P2ax5T7p3ZvJ iL1bbivPyi9nDqIxoQQ/106_0640.jpg
The results were somewhat disappointing. In stock form I got 138whp and 149 wtq. On the chart below, the first run was flooring it at 3500rpm, second at 3000 and third at 2500.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgAnA!AWNmNNcgOO8Jj1SuoDHY0W3532oWN1UnOwKhLVf23Ir zeb*91Q5RACpibRgVPAMZHOq!8kRb!wbstHKys!Sa7YKgZ73JS R4ISrVXa3ZKLixQKU6g/dyno-1.jpg
I went and got the kit installed. Before I get to how it feels and performs, here are the instruction on how to do this.
- Note BNZSport nor myself shall be responsible for any mishaps you should encounter if you choose to do this installation yourself. In performing this mod you are doing so at your own risk. Again, BNZSport nor myself will be responsible for any damage to your car should you choose to follow the instructions below. Be advised, proper safety measures should always be taken when working on your car.
Before beginning, check to make sure you have everything: Pulley, Pipe, Plugs, FPR and belt.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9AzgXj4G3Z5neU3synGJf4WEd3c8vF9Hv4mNeX62oBenry H4ayPlSBR7IbnRJhDQdVWubnF5TQvH3i1CFu74hGWg5IsDafM0 QoaFpijCji6Ov6mvK3g/r170_98010.jpg
1- Disconnect battery. Jack car with the jackstand in the trunk, just enough to slide the jack under the car from one side and jack completly the car. Then place two candles in order to stabilize everything.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAAAIwWR05Blpvg9vly!trCGPmZBKXnMyCE1Uc13HSh9oft2 frHjhz9Zf3WhOK9ViwRXW1uf7D0u82FZOh!QoRXeE856Yd1v!J Bs4Ngj3sGc0p8P49fIQ/106_0653.jpg
2- Remove the plastic protection under the engine. 4 screws hold it in place.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgCJAkoXToa3Z5neU3synMiBPw!BPAV3BEoLch59XY6SmDGzo ueTWNJXD8!pro1ed4DHOzvg*FlDYfzPFtXPDOzGhbfdkWHGhRJ 47GC2bz3wACSdvwRlNw/r170_96489.jpg
3- Remove the two clips on top of the fan housing
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB9A44WzU5Blpvg9vly!n!IUZewNrXg4swiK3y9aaYjDXtN6 anokDG8Z!BmkBONuFS9*YV*8SBs8MuGsJBRfUHTN3DT0p7C0jl y5aqFWmMjK8j3bA11aQ/106_0655.jpg
4- Pull out the plastic fan housing
5- Unscrew the 3 bolts holding the fan blades using an allen key.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAnA48WEE9Blpvg9vly!jS7j*6CU9eSmkNRT4r5k2AA!l8J7 gslFC2FcOP*53mr1XZzDykG8WDFtVUsHua5QUqxDyKCXvWxQpe qlpB6iKM96UOXqCeLPQ/106_0656.jpg
6- Loosen the two belt tensionners one by one and remove each belt.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB*A5AWU09Blpvg9vly!iqoqKJkVtVAmzvIdoz*XZSvssnpZ g!xTtuu3jrHjm3iv1mqznR0jXM6e10rjIIKio3!TLiauWXajHZ ES74nkipl25nMu9!kKg/106_0657.jpg
7- Remove the Viscous fan assembly. First remove two of the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley (behind the viscous fan). You need a 36mm fan wrench (Snap-On Special Toll SP346) and a special tool (Miller Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench) in order for the pulley not to rotate. You need to use adapter pins 8346 to put in the two holes from the previously removed bolts. This is right handed so you need to do as if you want to tighten the bolt in order to loosen it. In my case, we used a flat bar and cut out a 36mm wide strip with a plasma cutter to make the wrench.. and we used another flat bar with two holes and an opening in order to stop the pulley from rotating (putting the holes where the two left bolt heads are).
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TABxA5IW2U9Blpvg9vly!uF*SEkqFKp3izjKi6fKYbjQXhZ3w GNoP3AhPzK0ofYDfVL*jN7JisbMXdTyxgjnZfWeBzjNyEwiNX1 kBEViUiX6IsI*KwPCnA/106_0659.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAnA4oWwk1Blpvg9vly!qnLLKrb4t*TX7jVpDBqbqxMtuwjJ 5nTIUUDhx44GfMl7jqKf0y6LzbKatNXjRsyobkkqAoWYpVjlSs 4Sztc0x5*SR8m5LJOSQ/106_0660.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAAAIsWBU5Blpvg9vly!s4UwvREAXAAvHALaepypiY9MgPCZ zgVgoDjeDopcA6Kd0xIdXZEp4C!VUGe1EYX9TVwaVVbueOWe73 Jk2uVyGzqZfmFNMFEyA/106_0661.jpg
8- Lock the torque converter under the car. You will see right after the spot where the jack is (towards the rear of the car), two openings (see picture) with a piece in it rotation when someone turns the crank pulley. Block the torque converter using a metal bar placed in the hole towards the front of the car, you will see there is a metal part that the bar will block against and then you can hold it there to apply the torque on the pulley bolt to loosen it.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TACPAowWSE5Blpvg9vly!qlmGtVNjSQrYztqziEnRYfjeiOyv Uwd5qu8psTTdA5MpMREGzuaD!JTFQwGrdwo*Lk3jzHLhg65Ghq UWboXWZVciQTkxLSODg/106_0662.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAAAI0Wi05Blpvg9vly!i9vXekiV3dEJgUrbrLrQnxzXsc3e d7E!lfgqmj9TMKLxHzEEw6oo5uyMR0dWh3sCBiAK5j3CLPCJ1F J6JUIXALZD2kIfKvfHg/106_0663.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAyA44Wzk5Blpvg9vly!p7G5MLgbL8TMQ6dvhoxOyJAqTkQK 2*QcFCPTV7y1gTjAq6Os46zP0GD2drS6OOA*it0pc9j5Uj2GOU AxTtY47PY24ZzSJAdCA/106_0664.jpg
9- Remove the bolt and washer holding the pulley in place.
10- Pry the pulley out of the shaft using flat screwdrivers or better, pry bars. It?s easier to pry it from uder the car. Try prying it on both sides at the same time to keep everything aligned.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9A0oXT4a3Z5neU3synFhnBY91PfZb*v7tc0OqMcF2owk3L wfap6loqwxIaM9v89lxPRM!tUX9Kj5qiPNHgIFJCZwp6Y5zcRR XovtORDWiM7er0Xj6wA/r170_96498.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgDjAksXkoa3Z5neU3synLKZMAuMR4iIYjtjsGuidJK8eFg1D 9yv8RhaO8*vmJX!gj6cDLwldggn8wAaMV9mNMDp*Dc3nVa827i vI2keGHutcMXjL40bgA/r170_96499.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB9A48WEU9Blpvg9vly!oPnSJ2asvOXSjbY4cyRbihVYf0Fu 4WRG5QjMyxUr2RP3P7z3IUlbCPJpEJ30QYqU2C*kfzugcUhgaA jFM!Z9TTkeJf1tjCXfg/106_0665.jpg
11- Mark the new ASP pulley where the keyway is (the part where the key of the car?s shaft will align).
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAyA5QWYVBBlpvg9vly!hF0wTx!HeNdQSIRuTj08zV6ZNJIe xKUBLPo29pPqaHFYl5TbY3rRqoO!UVd8wUJUOUZGpNzWtpSHFx Vt7*8UKLv1SkbJhDbnw/106_0679.jpg
12- Put back the pulley on the car making sure it?s perfectly aligned. You will feel it being in the right spot and sliding into place.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9A0MXc4S3Z5neU3synJe6iwZ9vw8TRbEAt!YdutWewRyQi DzmtzJdyoncAjxiE4p0TT7*1EvV44QEx2bgbx7EZUO9RfMVjRJ w*kxSZUJMQGkxn1fBzQ/r170_96509.jpg
13- Put the bolt and washer back on the pulley.
14- Block the torque converter on the other side of the metal part to stop the rotation on the other way.
15- Torque the pulley bolt to 200lbs-ft
16- Route the original belt (the one going to the driver?s side accessories) and use the same technique as to remove it in order to loosen the tensionner pulley.
17- Route the new belt for the supercharger/alternator. Check the routing twice at least as it?S VERY easy to do it bad. If the belt is too slack, that?s because your routing was wrong (happened to me)
18- Unscrew the spark plug cover using allen keys.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgCJAj4XJIO3Z5neU3synCw!xl26gascwamOLzTFmvBUTmXX5 R5NaBpDoOsZnRi5QaTVSfrtgVAFmpOW4tCNDJvHw6nr1nwlofD fMiBtpS0U6*HKWLpM4w/r170_96504.jpg
19- Remove the 4 bolts holding two of the spark plug covers.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgCJAj8XZ4O3Z5neU3synO8*vbD3vyeBxYcw80QxW5PhBRexo 1m8IkQlvAxlrkr0nw8Hi7*P!ZtPST74ew494WXvYXzJ0mgvy6K 560JUo*0TTyjbkoAL7w/r170_96505.jpg
20- Pull out the 4 spark plugs plugs (!). You might have to pull pretty hard.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgAAAEAXqoO3Z5neU3synOYRAEDvn5nNdqjjPT43kzlG!3zo8 bx2Wzy6F8KjEqynxm14fVQ1pVJ8stfsb0R4q3dpYBehU69PYn8 Sbk!XnI81*ybYk7AbQA/r170_96506.jpg
21- Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket, an extention and a ratchet. You need a spark plus socket (with rubber in it) or else you won?t be able to pull out the plug of the hole.
22- Put the new spark plugs in. Torque the plugs to 15-22 lbs-ft.
23- Remove the original Fuel Pressure Regulator using a c-clamp tool (see picture). Put a cloth under since it might spill some fuel. Put the new FPR in place.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9Az0X4YK3Z5neU3synHLxZaSibTmIDIcs*kheZiMcVxurA PNUZw!Po7!4uxAB*DOH7iIzysTCTy0x3e6EPYZGrzWOWD0m8v* 7rx5WtX97oPHVeFFG*Q/r170_96503.jpg
24- Unclip the MAS and remove it by loosening the clamps around the plastic hose with a flat screwdriver. You need to completly remove the lower hose going into the MAS.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgA0AzoXGIK3Z5neU3synMh2P73BV9A4t3Mze4H0B0!*pzIuQ gif19CzelR7Zr2E!mJZsOG83a0kPLRP*M9vgdZU8ZnVYD0LEoW Ejx72xIm58U*VSaJcsw/r170_96500.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAAAIsWA05Blpvg9vly!uv6xXwI1ykea1Gc9jcxCNTQkc4aa 0YXOLKQy74i6HEKQdxjvZfnBH9JmCe8KZ5p4QqwUI4NCdY05*h tkIzFYnF10UQwE5v1fA/106_0643.jpg
25- Plug the MAS where the removed tube was, right on the left of the windshield washer fluid tank. Don?t forget to put it in the right way, menas the arrow must point towards the engine.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB*A5IW209Blpvg9vly!salc!yzEzwaRhJT7mnNqD4K0zan1 OZ5FvP1d8o2B!pG3B1nE0I5wYTN0rAuUNbCN8yUuSuknMN0aM* KrvWfCZ3RcQMbnRpDcA/106_0677.jpg
26- Plug the supplied pipe between the MAS and the original potition of the mass near the intercooler. Fasten all clamps with the flat screwdriver.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TACPApAWVU9Blpvg9vly!kX9llLuVahOVe5I!gR7HnUA438NI Qh5EGJRGeTumLOUZpxMzzdYTfuvDuhz4YWRCzPkj*KkrPvHFUY xalcwmy6Rg5LdQBfGkg/106_0675.jpg http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TABxA5EWmE9Blpvg9vly!tzChP5wL5niLczOFPYtpM1GBGKVC IZ!NSU*zxXNtO5DNQvy5yhaUsOqfizcYAwLp0BVXXEKR6IlXa9 36k3poiVWw1qsAJ*LTA/106_0676.jpg
27- Put a tie-wrap to hold the MAS wire in place.
28- Put everything back... the viscous fan, the two bolts for the water pump pulley, the fan blades and the fan housing, the plastic cover under the engine, the spark plugs, the spark plugs cover.
29- Reconnect battery. Start car and check if the belt rubs, if everything is fine.
30- Enter your radio code. Turn wheels fully on each side (in order to reset the ABS/BAS light). Push each windows button in the up position fand hold it for 2 seconds (not fully pressed, only the first step), this sets the auto-up/down feature.
31- Take the car for a drive, it will feel wierd. You?ll think the engine takes forever to build RPMs and doesn?t want to shift. This is normal. Drive for 10-15 minutes, shut the engine, start it again and drive again.. the car should feel better and better. After a few more minutes driving everything should be fine.
32- Enjoy your power. You WILL feel it, especially in the 50-80 or highay acceleration. You will also go way faster than you were used to using the same pedal press (so the first times you?ll arrive at an higher speed at the stop sign).
Now I had to go back to the dyno and see the results.
Same dyno, same ratio used. The calculated ratio should have been 4.8723 but I used the same one as before, it didn?t affect the numbers, only the speed and RPM might be a little shifted. The three runs were floored at 2500 RPM this time since we knew it would not kick down.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgBxA!EWeWOhtGgYmOs9H5el4ovz3PA2UPx7AdVqvvsJ7GbW3 O8Z5l2!yh4quYdY1hoTtKdqJOz2sLkXZk1CZ4JlYFcUujNsL4w imsw95xfqVSNbK6fQqA/dyno-2.jpg
I got 156 whp and 180 wtq. That?s a gain if 18 whp and 31wtq. If I convert it into crank, it gives approximatly 215 horsepower and 240 pound-feet of torque.
You can really feel the difference in torque as it kicks you in the seat a lot more. Those are not butt-dyno gains, but proven gains with same car, same dyno.
I hope I?ve shown every 1999-2000 C230k owner that there is a very cheap alternative to get more power from their cars. I think this is the best bang for the buck power mod we have. If anyone needs more information, contact me I?ll be glad to help.
Etienne
I wanted a Mercedes, I wanted a W202, and I wanted a warranty. So I got a 2000 C230 kompressor last spring. The C43 was appealing, but since I was only 23 years old and my budget was limited, I could not afford the insurance or price of the AMG.
I have been on BNZsport and Club202 a while looking at the mods available on the car. It seemed there weren?t many options available for the 230k, but since its a kompressor, the simplest replacement for displacement is boost.
Not a lot of options there either. Dynospot racing, Kleemann or ASP. Dynospot had a 30whp gain but removed the magnetic supercharger clutch and this wasn?t an option since my car is under warranty; the price was around $1200 for pulley and a GIAC chip. Kleemann stopped producing the kit so finding one was almost impossible; that kit was $1800. I checked on what Linh (can be found on Club202) had to offer. His kit includes a smaller pulley than Kleemann giving a little less boost, thus less stress on the engine. No need for a chip since the fuel pressure regulator did the job and there was also MAS relocation. I didn?t get the cool Kleemann badges, but I didn?t want them anyway.
Nobody had an ASP pullied W202, which scared me a little. After reading a lot on the R170 forums (using the same engine), I got more and more confident on the ASP since many users were happy with the product. As an added incentive, when you send your old pulley back to ASP, they credit you for the core exchange. This makes the kit at something like $450 total which I considered a steal.
I wanted to have a base dyno and see the gains from the pulley. I went to L-Sport in Montreal that has the latest technology in dynos; a dynapack. The dynapack is placed directly on your hubs and you can even dyno 4WD cars.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TABxA4gWOk1Blpvg9vly!gYvW5EYXam9K!6kQcLzAYvWZIlX0 tf7uxmxVw*R1cj!6zmpnZh!ihFUQwsut3KFCY3P2ax5T7p3ZvJ iL1bbivPyi9nDqIxoQQ/106_0640.jpg
The results were somewhat disappointing. In stock form I got 138whp and 149 wtq. On the chart below, the first run was flooring it at 3500rpm, second at 3000 and third at 2500.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgAnA!AWNmNNcgOO8Jj1SuoDHY0W3532oWN1UnOwKhLVf23Ir zeb*91Q5RACpibRgVPAMZHOq!8kRb!wbstHKys!Sa7YKgZ73JS R4ISrVXa3ZKLixQKU6g/dyno-1.jpg
I went and got the kit installed. Before I get to how it feels and performs, here are the instruction on how to do this.
- Note BNZSport nor myself shall be responsible for any mishaps you should encounter if you choose to do this installation yourself. In performing this mod you are doing so at your own risk. Again, BNZSport nor myself will be responsible for any damage to your car should you choose to follow the instructions below. Be advised, proper safety measures should always be taken when working on your car.
Before beginning, check to make sure you have everything: Pulley, Pipe, Plugs, FPR and belt.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9AzgXj4G3Z5neU3synGJf4WEd3c8vF9Hv4mNeX62oBenry H4ayPlSBR7IbnRJhDQdVWubnF5TQvH3i1CFu74hGWg5IsDafM0 QoaFpijCji6Ov6mvK3g/r170_98010.jpg
1- Disconnect battery. Jack car with the jackstand in the trunk, just enough to slide the jack under the car from one side and jack completly the car. Then place two candles in order to stabilize everything.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAAAIwWR05Blpvg9vly!trCGPmZBKXnMyCE1Uc13HSh9oft2 frHjhz9Zf3WhOK9ViwRXW1uf7D0u82FZOh!QoRXeE856Yd1v!J Bs4Ngj3sGc0p8P49fIQ/106_0653.jpg
2- Remove the plastic protection under the engine. 4 screws hold it in place.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgCJAkoXToa3Z5neU3synMiBPw!BPAV3BEoLch59XY6SmDGzo ueTWNJXD8!pro1ed4DHOzvg*FlDYfzPFtXPDOzGhbfdkWHGhRJ 47GC2bz3wACSdvwRlNw/r170_96489.jpg
3- Remove the two clips on top of the fan housing
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB9A44WzU5Blpvg9vly!n!IUZewNrXg4swiK3y9aaYjDXtN6 anokDG8Z!BmkBONuFS9*YV*8SBs8MuGsJBRfUHTN3DT0p7C0jl y5aqFWmMjK8j3bA11aQ/106_0655.jpg
4- Pull out the plastic fan housing
5- Unscrew the 3 bolts holding the fan blades using an allen key.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAnA48WEE9Blpvg9vly!jS7j*6CU9eSmkNRT4r5k2AA!l8J7 gslFC2FcOP*53mr1XZzDykG8WDFtVUsHua5QUqxDyKCXvWxQpe qlpB6iKM96UOXqCeLPQ/106_0656.jpg
6- Loosen the two belt tensionners one by one and remove each belt.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB*A5AWU09Blpvg9vly!iqoqKJkVtVAmzvIdoz*XZSvssnpZ g!xTtuu3jrHjm3iv1mqznR0jXM6e10rjIIKio3!TLiauWXajHZ ES74nkipl25nMu9!kKg/106_0657.jpg
7- Remove the Viscous fan assembly. First remove two of the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley (behind the viscous fan). You need a 36mm fan wrench (Snap-On Special Toll SP346) and a special tool (Miller Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench) in order for the pulley not to rotate. You need to use adapter pins 8346 to put in the two holes from the previously removed bolts. This is right handed so you need to do as if you want to tighten the bolt in order to loosen it. In my case, we used a flat bar and cut out a 36mm wide strip with a plasma cutter to make the wrench.. and we used another flat bar with two holes and an opening in order to stop the pulley from rotating (putting the holes where the two left bolt heads are).
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TABxA5IW2U9Blpvg9vly!uF*SEkqFKp3izjKi6fKYbjQXhZ3w GNoP3AhPzK0ofYDfVL*jN7JisbMXdTyxgjnZfWeBzjNyEwiNX1 kBEViUiX6IsI*KwPCnA/106_0659.jpg
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8- Lock the torque converter under the car. You will see right after the spot where the jack is (towards the rear of the car), two openings (see picture) with a piece in it rotation when someone turns the crank pulley. Block the torque converter using a metal bar placed in the hole towards the front of the car, you will see there is a metal part that the bar will block against and then you can hold it there to apply the torque on the pulley bolt to loosen it.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TACPAowWSE5Blpvg9vly!qlmGtVNjSQrYztqziEnRYfjeiOyv Uwd5qu8psTTdA5MpMREGzuaD!JTFQwGrdwo*Lk3jzHLhg65Ghq UWboXWZVciQTkxLSODg/106_0662.jpg
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9- Remove the bolt and washer holding the pulley in place.
10- Pry the pulley out of the shaft using flat screwdrivers or better, pry bars. It?s easier to pry it from uder the car. Try prying it on both sides at the same time to keep everything aligned.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9A0oXT4a3Z5neU3synFhnBY91PfZb*v7tc0OqMcF2owk3L wfap6loqwxIaM9v89lxPRM!tUX9Kj5qiPNHgIFJCZwp6Y5zcRR XovtORDWiM7er0Xj6wA/r170_96498.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgDjAksXkoa3Z5neU3synLKZMAuMR4iIYjtjsGuidJK8eFg1D 9yv8RhaO8*vmJX!gj6cDLwldggn8wAaMV9mNMDp*Dc3nVa827i vI2keGHutcMXjL40bgA/r170_96499.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB9A48WEU9Blpvg9vly!oPnSJ2asvOXSjbY4cyRbihVYf0Fu 4WRG5QjMyxUr2RP3P7z3IUlbCPJpEJ30QYqU2C*kfzugcUhgaA jFM!Z9TTkeJf1tjCXfg/106_0665.jpg
11- Mark the new ASP pulley where the keyway is (the part where the key of the car?s shaft will align).
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAyA5QWYVBBlpvg9vly!hF0wTx!HeNdQSIRuTj08zV6ZNJIe xKUBLPo29pPqaHFYl5TbY3rRqoO!UVd8wUJUOUZGpNzWtpSHFx Vt7*8UKLv1SkbJhDbnw/106_0679.jpg
12- Put back the pulley on the car making sure it?s perfectly aligned. You will feel it being in the right spot and sliding into place.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9A0MXc4S3Z5neU3synJe6iwZ9vw8TRbEAt!YdutWewRyQi DzmtzJdyoncAjxiE4p0TT7*1EvV44QEx2bgbx7EZUO9RfMVjRJ w*kxSZUJMQGkxn1fBzQ/r170_96509.jpg
13- Put the bolt and washer back on the pulley.
14- Block the torque converter on the other side of the metal part to stop the rotation on the other way.
15- Torque the pulley bolt to 200lbs-ft
16- Route the original belt (the one going to the driver?s side accessories) and use the same technique as to remove it in order to loosen the tensionner pulley.
17- Route the new belt for the supercharger/alternator. Check the routing twice at least as it?S VERY easy to do it bad. If the belt is too slack, that?s because your routing was wrong (happened to me)
18- Unscrew the spark plug cover using allen keys.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgCJAj4XJIO3Z5neU3synCw!xl26gascwamOLzTFmvBUTmXX5 R5NaBpDoOsZnRi5QaTVSfrtgVAFmpOW4tCNDJvHw6nr1nwlofD fMiBtpS0U6*HKWLpM4w/r170_96504.jpg
19- Remove the 4 bolts holding two of the spark plug covers.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgCJAj8XZ4O3Z5neU3synO8*vbD3vyeBxYcw80QxW5PhBRexo 1m8IkQlvAxlrkr0nw8Hi7*P!ZtPST74ew494WXvYXzJ0mgvy6K 560JUo*0TTyjbkoAL7w/r170_96505.jpg
20- Pull out the 4 spark plugs plugs (!). You might have to pull pretty hard.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgAAAEAXqoO3Z5neU3synOYRAEDvn5nNdqjjPT43kzlG!3zo8 bx2Wzy6F8KjEqynxm14fVQ1pVJ8stfsb0R4q3dpYBehU69PYn8 Sbk!XnI81*ybYk7AbQA/r170_96506.jpg
21- Remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket, an extention and a ratchet. You need a spark plus socket (with rubber in it) or else you won?t be able to pull out the plug of the hole.
22- Put the new spark plugs in. Torque the plugs to 15-22 lbs-ft.
23- Remove the original Fuel Pressure Regulator using a c-clamp tool (see picture). Put a cloth under since it might spill some fuel. Put the new FPR in place.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgB9Az0X4YK3Z5neU3synHLxZaSibTmIDIcs*kheZiMcVxurA PNUZw!Po7!4uxAB*DOH7iIzysTCTy0x3e6EPYZGrzWOWD0m8v* 7rx5WtX97oPHVeFFG*Q/r170_96503.jpg
24- Unclip the MAS and remove it by loosening the clamps around the plastic hose with a flat screwdriver. You need to completly remove the lower hose going into the MAS.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgA0AzoXGIK3Z5neU3synMh2P73BV9A4t3Mze4H0B0!*pzIuQ gif19CzelR7Zr2E!mJZsOG83a0kPLRP*M9vgdZU8ZnVYD0LEoW Ejx72xIm58U*VSaJcsw/r170_96500.jpg
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAAAAIsWA05Blpvg9vly!uv6xXwI1ykea1Gc9jcxCNTQkc4aa 0YXOLKQy74i6HEKQdxjvZfnBH9JmCe8KZ5p4QqwUI4NCdY05*h tkIzFYnF10UQwE5v1fA/106_0643.jpg
25- Plug the MAS where the removed tube was, right on the left of the windshield washer fluid tank. Don?t forget to put it in the right way, menas the arrow must point towards the engine.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TAB*A5IW209Blpvg9vly!salc!yzEzwaRhJT7mnNqD4K0zan1 OZ5FvP1d8o2B!pG3B1nE0I5wYTN0rAuUNbCN8yUuSuknMN0aM* KrvWfCZ3RcQMbnRpDcA/106_0677.jpg
26- Plug the supplied pipe between the MAS and the original potition of the mass near the intercooler. Fasten all clamps with the flat screwdriver.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TACPApAWVU9Blpvg9vly!kX9llLuVahOVe5I!gR7HnUA438NI Qh5EGJRGeTumLOUZpxMzzdYTfuvDuhz4YWRCzPkj*KkrPvHFUY xalcwmy6Rg5LdQBfGkg/106_0675.jpg http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TABxA5EWmE9Blpvg9vly!tzChP5wL5niLczOFPYtpM1GBGKVC IZ!NSU*zxXNtO5DNQvy5yhaUsOqfizcYAwLp0BVXXEKR6IlXa9 36k3poiVWw1qsAJ*LTA/106_0676.jpg
27- Put a tie-wrap to hold the MAS wire in place.
28- Put everything back... the viscous fan, the two bolts for the water pump pulley, the fan blades and the fan housing, the plastic cover under the engine, the spark plugs, the spark plugs cover.
29- Reconnect battery. Start car and check if the belt rubs, if everything is fine.
30- Enter your radio code. Turn wheels fully on each side (in order to reset the ABS/BAS light). Push each windows button in the up position fand hold it for 2 seconds (not fully pressed, only the first step), this sets the auto-up/down feature.
31- Take the car for a drive, it will feel wierd. You?ll think the engine takes forever to build RPMs and doesn?t want to shift. This is normal. Drive for 10-15 minutes, shut the engine, start it again and drive again.. the car should feel better and better. After a few more minutes driving everything should be fine.
32- Enjoy your power. You WILL feel it, especially in the 50-80 or highay acceleration. You will also go way faster than you were used to using the same pedal press (so the first times you?ll arrive at an higher speed at the stop sign).
Now I had to go back to the dyno and see the results.
Same dyno, same ratio used. The calculated ratio should have been 4.8723 but I used the same one as before, it didn?t affect the numbers, only the speed and RPM might be a little shifted. The three runs were floored at 2500 RPM this time since we knew it would not kick down.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgBxA!EWeWOhtGgYmOs9H5el4ovz3PA2UPx7AdVqvvsJ7GbW3 O8Z5l2!yh4quYdY1hoTtKdqJOz2sLkXZk1CZ4JlYFcUujNsL4w imsw95xfqVSNbK6fQqA/dyno-2.jpg
I got 156 whp and 180 wtq. That?s a gain if 18 whp and 31wtq. If I convert it into crank, it gives approximatly 215 horsepower and 240 pound-feet of torque.
You can really feel the difference in torque as it kicks you in the seat a lot more. Those are not butt-dyno gains, but proven gains with same car, same dyno.
I hope I?ve shown every 1999-2000 C230k owner that there is a very cheap alternative to get more power from their cars. I think this is the best bang for the buck power mod we have. If anyone needs more information, contact me I?ll be glad to help.
Etienne