nokia8860
05-28-2005, 01:54 PM
It’s that time of year when the temps start hovering around 105 degrees Fahrenheit and a change of coolant is needed to insure adequate cooling of the engine while being fully loaded with the AC on 11 and not letting up on the accelerator.
While the manual has its own suggestion and it’s a good one to adhere to, I use my own concoction. Whatever you use the process of removing and replacing is the same.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8231.jpg
Ingredients are simple: Coolant, distilled water, water wetter (optional) and a new thermostat.
You will need to gain access to the drainage plug (shown in red) at the bottom of the radiator. This will require you to remove your skid plate. Once you have access to the drain plug make sure you have a large enough container to catch all the coolant that will flow out. Take a flat head screwdriver and loosen the plug.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8232.jpg
Once loosen (note not removed) undo the reservoir cap so coolant will start coming out. No the coolant isnt yellow. It just got captured that way.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8235.jpg
Edit: At this point you should flush out the radiator with water until it runs clean. This will require you to remove the upper and lower hoses attached to the radiator. A 7mm or flat head is all you need to remove the clamps to loosen the hose.
It’s a good time now to replace the thermostat since the radiator is now drained.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8233.jpg
The thermostat is housed in a metal casing held on by 3 star looking bolts (reverse security something… eh whatever) which can be undone with a 8mm socket. After removing the bolts, if you’re finding that it’s difficult to remove the housing, a swift whack with a rubber mallet will quickly free it. Once removed simply replace the old thermostat and gasket with the new one and reinstall the housing.
The next step is to drain the block. While underneath the car towards the middle of the passenger side block you will see a drain plug (M104 speaking)its made to attach a tube to it so you don’t spill coolant everywhere but if you have a large enough pan that wont been necessary. Loosen the plug and let the coolant run out.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8237.jpg
At this time I’ll also run the car with the HVAC on high heat to get the coolant out of the heater core as well.
Once coolant stops flowing out you can then tighten the plug and put back the skid plate as everything else will be from the top of the engine.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8238.jpg
If you’re doing the 50/50 method it’s rather simple to ensure the right amount of coolant for the right amount of water. However, if you plan on doing a 60/40, 75/25 (yep I use more distilled water than coolant in my mix) etc… having some empty containers will help you get the mixture just right.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8239.jpg
The best way I’ve found to put in new coolant without getting those nasty air bubbles inside is to have the engine running while adding the mixture. Once completed I’ll let the engine continue to operate for a bit with the cap still off, after I’ll cap it up and take it for a drive.
I’ll let the engine rest and recheck the reservoir and add more distilled water should I need to. But basically after that you’re all done.
And incase you’re wondering about my mixture this is what my temps are after some hard driving with the AC on 11.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8240.jpg
Dedicated to kameraguy and his hot running 3.6
While the manual has its own suggestion and it’s a good one to adhere to, I use my own concoction. Whatever you use the process of removing and replacing is the same.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8231.jpg
Ingredients are simple: Coolant, distilled water, water wetter (optional) and a new thermostat.
You will need to gain access to the drainage plug (shown in red) at the bottom of the radiator. This will require you to remove your skid plate. Once you have access to the drain plug make sure you have a large enough container to catch all the coolant that will flow out. Take a flat head screwdriver and loosen the plug.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8232.jpg
Once loosen (note not removed) undo the reservoir cap so coolant will start coming out. No the coolant isnt yellow. It just got captured that way.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8235.jpg
Edit: At this point you should flush out the radiator with water until it runs clean. This will require you to remove the upper and lower hoses attached to the radiator. A 7mm or flat head is all you need to remove the clamps to loosen the hose.
It’s a good time now to replace the thermostat since the radiator is now drained.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8233.jpg
The thermostat is housed in a metal casing held on by 3 star looking bolts (reverse security something… eh whatever) which can be undone with a 8mm socket. After removing the bolts, if you’re finding that it’s difficult to remove the housing, a swift whack with a rubber mallet will quickly free it. Once removed simply replace the old thermostat and gasket with the new one and reinstall the housing.
The next step is to drain the block. While underneath the car towards the middle of the passenger side block you will see a drain plug (M104 speaking)its made to attach a tube to it so you don’t spill coolant everywhere but if you have a large enough pan that wont been necessary. Loosen the plug and let the coolant run out.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8237.jpg
At this time I’ll also run the car with the HVAC on high heat to get the coolant out of the heater core as well.
Once coolant stops flowing out you can then tighten the plug and put back the skid plate as everything else will be from the top of the engine.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8238.jpg
If you’re doing the 50/50 method it’s rather simple to ensure the right amount of coolant for the right amount of water. However, if you plan on doing a 60/40, 75/25 (yep I use more distilled water than coolant in my mix) etc… having some empty containers will help you get the mixture just right.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8239.jpg
The best way I’ve found to put in new coolant without getting those nasty air bubbles inside is to have the engine running while adding the mixture. Once completed I’ll let the engine continue to operate for a bit with the cap still off, after I’ll cap it up and take it for a drive.
I’ll let the engine rest and recheck the reservoir and add more distilled water should I need to. But basically after that you’re all done.
And incase you’re wondering about my mixture this is what my temps are after some hard driving with the AC on 11.
http://www.bnzsport.com/gallery/coolant/CRW_8240.jpg
Dedicated to kameraguy and his hot running 3.6